Peru: Expedition Nevado Pisco (5752 m) & Alpamayo (5947 m)

Explore the Highest Tropical Mountain Range in the World

17 Days/16 Nights   June to August   Moderate

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Nevado Pisco: This is a very appealing mountain and a good option for climbers for acclimatization. Previous experience in mountaineering is not required, though you should be in good physical condition. At the summit (5752 m), you are rewarded with magnificent views of the Cordillera Blanca (White Range), including the 4 peaks of the Huandoys, Alpamayo, Artesonraju and Chopicalqui. You’ll also be able to see North and South Huascaran, the highest mountain in Peru, at 6,768 meters.

Getting to Quebrada Llanganuco: The starting point to climb is located in Quebrada Llanganuco (Llanganuco Valley), the most spectacular valley in the Cordillera Blanca. From Huaraz take a "colectivo" (public bus) to the town of Yungay (1 hour) or otherwise arrange a private transportation, if you are in a group.

In Yungay ask for another shuttle to Pisco base camp in Llanganuco valley (Quebrada Llanganuco). There are two lagoons in Llanganuco: Laguna Chinancocha and Laguna Orconcoha. When you bargain with the driver make it clear that you want to go to the Pisco Base Camp, located at the first hairpin-curve at 77km., called "La Curva" or (Cebollapampa), lying 5 km. beyond the second lagoon (tourist buses usually only go to the first lake!). On the way you will stop at the park entrance gate, where you will pay the entrance fee. About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Nevado Alpamayo Routes: Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.

NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Flight from Europe to Lima. Overnight in the hotel
Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m). The trip is 400km and takes 8 hours
Day 3: Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) - Back to Huaraz
Day 4: Huaraz (3100 m) - Privat transport to Pitec (3850 m) - Trekking Hike to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
Day 5: Huaraz - Transfer via valle Llanganuco to Cebollapampa - Trekking to Refugio Pisco (4680 m)
Day 6: Base Camp/Peru Hut - Climb Nevado Pisco (5752 m) - back to Base Camp.
Day 7: Base Camp - Trekking to Refugio Pisco - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 8: Rest day in Huaraz
Day 9: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Day 10: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Day 11: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Day 12: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Day 13: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 14: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 15: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel
Day 16: Stay in Lima - Transfer to the Airport
Day 17: Arrival in Europe or the country of origin

Detailed Program


Detailed Program

Day 1: Flight from Europe to Lima. Overnight in the hotel
Arrival in Lima - a large city with a population of approximately 11 million - the largest city in South America. Rest. If you wish, explore the city on your own. Overnight Hotel (-/-/-)

Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m). The trip is 400km and takes 8 hours
This ride follows the Pan American highway north across the impressive Pacific coastal desert. Continuing toward higher terrain, we pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Valley and Huaraz (3100m.) Once across the pass, you’ll see a charming view of the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, without a doubt some of the most impressive scenery in the world. You can also fly via LCPERU - flight duration 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 3: Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) - Back to Huaraz
For acclimatization we visit the Cordillera Negra, where you can see a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll have a chance to see wild ducks on the beautiful lake. Wilcacocha, because of its location, is an exceptional viewpoint for the Cordillera Blanca, allowing us to identify peaks (from north to south) Huandoy, Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa,Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 4: Huaraz (3100 m) - Privat transport to Pitec (3850 m) - Trekking Hike to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
The trail to Laguna Churup is one of the classic hikes of the Cordillera Blanca, challenging but a great acclimatization route. We drive to the village of Llupa, and from there begin our hike on an ancient Inca trail to Laguna (Lake) Churup. The trail gets narrow and steep, including a small section with fixed ropes. It‘s one of the most beautiful places in this varied mountain region. Churup Peak rises above the lake, a wild rocky mountain with glaciers and cliffs 5,400 meters above sea level. Here we can continue climbing and do a loop to the Churup summit trail before returning to the trailhead and back to Huaraz for the night. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 5: Huaraz - Transfer via valle Llanganuco to Cebollapampa - Trekking to Refugio Pisco (4680 m)
Today we head for the departure point for our climb. We set off via private transport to the valley of the Santa River, as far down as Yungay and continuation via valley Llanganuco. From cruze Cebollapampa trekking up to Refugio Peru. We stop at the Pisco mountain hut “Refugio Perú“, our base camp. The view of the back portion of Huascarán Peak and Chopicalqui is overwhelming. We also enjoy the views of Huandoy, Chacraraju and Yanapaccha. Overnight in the hut. Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 6: Base Camp/Peru Hut - Climb Nevado Pisco (5752 m) - back to Base Camp.
A little after midnight we leave Base Camp, climbing up to cross the long moraine to arrive at the glacier. A sharp climb brings us to the saddle of Nevada Pisco. Next the final long climb over the glacier to the peak, 5752 meters in elevation. We are again going to have a magnificent view of the highest mountain in Perú - Huascarán, and also nearby Huandoy, Chopiqualci and many more. Later we descend back to Refugio Peru. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 7: Base Camp - Trekking to Refugio Pisco - Transfer to Huaraz
Our trek is nearing its end. Early in the morning we begin our descent toward Cebollapampa and continue hiking until we arrive at the highway. From there, we take a vehicle to return to Huaraz. Tired and happy, we arrive at the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 8: Rest day in Huaraz
Relax day, laundry in Huaraz. Optional go to the thermal baths of Monterrey 20 minutes from Huaraz or Chancos 50 minutes from Huaraz, after preparation of technical climbing equipment for for go to Nevado Alpamayo the next day, in the afternoon meeting with the local guide and brifing. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 9: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m). Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 10: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Camp Llamacoral - Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 11: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 12: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 13: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 14: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Day 15: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel
Options: Flight or bus. Flights are via LC-Peru and last 50 minutes. Overnight Hotel (B/-/-)

Day 16: Stay in Lima - Transfer to the Airport
Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc. Overnight flight (B/-/-)

Day 17: Arrival in Europe or the country of origin
Arrival in USA or Austria, Switzerland,Germany, etc. Overnight Home (-/-/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included


What's included

Services included in the prices:
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Cooks and helpers
  • All meals during the tour
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters for Nevados Alpamayo, Artesonraju and Huascaran
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Bus tickets Huaraz/Lima, executive service in public bus-Movil Tours or Cruz del Sur
  • Hotel Kamana 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel Casa Blanca 6 nights in Huaraz

Not Included:
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates


Tour Information:

Season: June to August
Difficulty: Moderate

Dates & Prices:

More information about dates and prices upon request.

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Eric Albino
Eric Albino Lliuya
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