Peru: Expedition Nevado Pisco (5752 m) & Alpamayo (5947 m)

Explore the Highest Tropical Mountain Range in the World

17 Days/16 Nights   June to August   Moderate

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Nevado Pisco: This is a very appealing mountain and a good option for climbers for acclimatization. Previous experience in mountaineering is not required, though you should be in good physical condition. At the summit (5752 m), you are rewarded with magnificent views of the Cordillera Blanca (White Range), including the 4 peaks of the Huandoys, Alpamayo, Artesonraju and Chopicalqui. You’ll also be able to see North and South Huascaran, the highest mountain in Peru, at 6,768 meters.

Getting to Quebrada Llanganuco: The starting point to climb is located in Quebrada Llanganuco (Llanganuco Valley), the most spectacular valley in the Cordillera Blanca. From Huaraz take a "colectivo" (public bus) to the town of Yungay (1 hour) or otherwise arrange a private transportation, if you are in a group.

In Yungay ask for another shuttle to Pisco base camp in Llanganuco valley (Quebrada Llanganuco). There are two lagoons in Llanganuco: Laguna Chinancocha and Laguna Orconcoha. When you bargain with the driver make it clear that you want to go to the Pisco Base Camp, located at the first hairpin-curve at 77km., called "La Curva" or (Cebollapampa), lying 5 km. beyond the second lagoon (tourist buses usually only go to the first lake!). On the way you will stop at the park entrance gate, where you will pay the entrance fee. About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Nevado Alpamayo Routes: Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.

NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Flight from Europe to Lima. Overnight in the hotel
Day 2: Travel by bus to Huaraz (3100m). The trip is 400km and takes 8 hours
Day 3: Huaraz - Trekking to Laguna Wilcacoha (3725 m) - Back to Huaraz
Day 4: Huaraz (3100 m) - Privat transport to Pitec (3850 m) - Trekking Hike to Laguna Churup (4450 m)
Day 5: Huaraz - Transfer via valle Llanganuco to Cebollapampa - Trekking to Refugio Pisco (4680 m)
Day 6: Base Camp/Peru Hut - Climb Nevado Pisco (5752 m) - back to Base Camp.
Day 7: Base Camp - Trekking to Refugio Pisco - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 8: Rest day in Huaraz
Day 9: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Day 10: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Day 11: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Day 12: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Day 13: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 14: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Day 15: Transfer to the Anta Airport and 50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for the 8 hour ride to Lima. Transfer to the hotel
Day 16: Stay in Lima - Transfer to the Airport
Day 17: Arrival in Europe or the country of origin

Detailed Program

What’s included

Prices & Dates

Maps & Download

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Eric Albino
Eric Albino Lliuya
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