Peru: Expedition Nevado Alpamayo (5947 m)

The most Beautiful Mountain in the World

06 Days/05 Nights   June to August   Demanding

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Alpamayo Peak: The pyramid shaped Alpamayo is considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The ascent toward the peak is very steep and the majority of it is a technical climb. This mountain should only be attempted by those who are well acclimatized and who have summited of other high peaks. From one side Alpamayo is an almost perfect pyramid, covered with enormous ice shelves. The other face, the trapezoidal southwest wall, is even more beautiful. All of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range is protected by Huascarán National Park, a paradise of snowcapped peaks. The park also includes the peaks of Huandoy and Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru), as well as 663 glaciers, 269 lakes, some 42 rivers, as well as 33 archaeological sites.

About Nevado Alpamayo Routes: Alpamayo should not be underestimated. Lessthan half of the climbers coming to the BC make it to the top.

NB: After the July-2003-icefall the conditions in Alapmayo SW-face seem to have changed.
Ferrari: AD+, 10m 70°, 8 pitches 45°, 1 pitch 55°. 5-7h.
Frech Direct: D+ 50°-65°, 10 pitches. 6-8h Start near the lowermost part of the bergschrund (1½h). After 1/3 of the ascent follow the runnel leading to the top.
North Ridge: D The route of the first ascent. Nowadays unusual due to the higher objective risks. The ridge can be gained from Laguna Jancarurish or by traversing from the col.
Descent: Rappel down the way you came respectively the Ferrari Route (snow stakes most times in situ).

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Day 4: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Day 5: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 6: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz

Detailed Program


Detailed Program

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m). Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m)
Camp Llamacoral - Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 4: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 5: High Camp - Ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Quitaraju (6,036 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 5-6 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 6: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included


What's included

Services included in the prices:
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Vallunaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cooks
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not Included:
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates


Tour Information:

Season: June to August
Difficulty: Difficult / Demanding

Dates & Prices:

More information about dates and prices upon request.

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Eric Albino Lliuya
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