Peru: Expedition Nevado Quitaraju (6040 m)

Explore the Highest Tropical Mountain Range in the World

06 Days/05 Nights   June to August   Demanding

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Nevado Quitaraju: Quitaraju is situated south-eastwards of Alpamayo. Obviously Quitaraju does not get half as much attention as Alpamayo does, there are even more parties climbing the Alpamayo, but less parties climbing has the Nevado Quitaraju. It is a really nice mountain with great views of it's south face, the Alpamayo, Artesonrajo, Huascaran(s), Chopicalqui. The easiest route is W ridge, graded AD, but very very long, sustained and steep in places. North face is really nice, being graded D, 700m, inclination of about 55° degrees. Different variants have different grades, so a tougher climber could find some 60-70 degree climbing going some 50m left or right from the arete in upper part of the face.

Quitaraju/Kitarahu (Ancash Quechua kita dam,Quechua rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow, hispanicized spellings Quitarajo, Quitaraju, also Kitaraju) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 6,040 metres (19,816 ft) high. It is situated in the Ancash Region, Huaylas Province, Santa Cruz District. Kitarahu lies north of the Yuraqmayu valley (Santa Cruz gorge) and the lakes named Ichikcocha, Hatuncocha, between Pukaraju in the west and Alpamayo (Allpamayu) in the northeast.

The name of the mountain Kitarahu correlates with the name of the nearby lake Kitaqucha (Quechua for storage lake, hispanicized Quitacocha).

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Quitaraju/Alpamayo (4350 m)
Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Day 4: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Day 5: High Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Summit (6040 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 6: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz

Detailed Program


Detailed Program

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m)
Huaraz Privat transfer drive about 3 Hours to village Cashapampa via valley of Santa river crossing villages Caraz, Yugay and Caraz; Starting the Trekking Santa Cruz; meeting team and burros, trekking up to Llamacoral (3850 m). Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 2: Llamacoral - Trekking to Base Camp of Quitaraju/Alpamayo (4350 m)
Camp Llamacoral - Trekking to Arhuaycocha (4300 m). With views of the peaks Alpamayo, Artesnorahu and Taulliraju. Night at the Base Camp of Alpamayo (4350 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 3: Alpamayo Base Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Moraine Camp (4900 m)
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 4: Moraine Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m)
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 5: High Camp - Ascend to Quitaraju Summit (6040 m) - High Camp (5300 m) or Descend to Base Camp (4300 m)
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 70 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Alpamayo (5,947 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 6-7 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m). Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 6: Base Camp - Descent through Quebrada Santa Cruz - Cashapampa - Transfer to Huaraz
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included


What's included

Services included in the prices:
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Quitaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cook
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not Included:
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates


Tour Information:

Season: June to August
Difficulty: Demanding / difficult

Dates & Prices:

More information about dates and prices upon request.

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Detailprogramm-Peru [DOC/PDF] 2022
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Eric Albino
Eric Albino Lliuya
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