Peru: Expedition Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m)

North west ridge normal route or direct west face 60° - 75° degrees

04 Days/03 Nights   May to September   Demanding

Highlights of the Cordillera Blanca. The highest tropical mountain range in the world, the Cordillera Blanca is part of the spectacular Andes that form the spine of South America. A mecca for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, the region boasts over 50 peaks that exceed 15,000 feet, 700 glaciers and 300 lakes.

About Quebrada Ishinca: Mountain views - Three Peruvian Peaks - Urus (5495 m), Ishinca (5530 m) and Tocllaraju (6034 m). Climb of Ishinca, with a journey through the Ishinca Valley, is a popular destination for climbers who want to get to 5 or 6000 meter peak, but because of the scenic beauty, this is a great climb even if you don’t reach the peak. On this hike we have a fascinating view of the massif that includes Ishinca, Urus, Tocllaraju, Ranrapalco, the Palcarajus and much more.

The super-classic Tocllaraju NW ridge and the most difficult Ranrapalca Normal route belong to another climbing range and complete the possibilities.

Obvious line starting from the base of the west face. Depending on the season it might not be possible to attempt it; the later the season the worst. It is recomended a very early start to avoid a very soupy-snow ascent. From camp 1 Moraine Camp (4950 m) traverse rightwards under the West Face and climb a line on the South end wich skirts the upper serac barrier on the right to join the south ridge 100m from the summit, 5-7 h from camp. And climb the snow mushroom. Descent abseiling the snow mushroom summit and descent the NW ridge.

Travel Program


Itinerary:

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)
Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4950 m)
Day 3: Moraine Camp - Ascend Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Base Camp
Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3400 m) - Village of Pashpa - Transfer to Huaraz

Detailed Program


Detailed Program

Day 1: Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)
Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp (-/L/D)

Day 2: Ishinca Base Camp - Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4950 m)
About mid day, after lunch, we begin the ascent via a steep moraine to the edge of the glacier. From this point we can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 3: Moraine Camp - Ascend Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Base Camp
Summit Day! Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The variant direct route is the west face 60° 70° maximal 75° degree - It is demanding / difficult. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today. Overnight Camp (B/L/D)

Day 4: Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3400 m) - Village of Pashpa - Transfer to Huaraz
After breakfast we leave at 8am for an easy return walk to Pashpa. Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hotel (B/L/-)

Included meals: B=breakfast; L=lunch; D=dinner

What’s included


What's included

Services included in the prices:
  • Peruvian qualified and experienced local guide/s
  • All meals during the tour
  • Camping tents (2 persons)
  • Porters Nevado Tocllaraju (2 pax 1 porter)
  • Kitchen equipment
  • Cook
  • Donkey driver and donkeys
  • Transportation as tour schedule / Huaraz

Not Included:
  • International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
  • Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
  • Exit tax at the airport in Lima
  • Travel accident and health insurance
  • Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
  • Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
  • Personal expenses
  • Acclimatization Tour
  • Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
  • Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
  • Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
  • Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
  • Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
  • Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hote
  • Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
  • Tips

Prices & Dates


Tour Information:

Season: May to September
Difficulty: The Tocllaraju North West ridge normal route demanding / direct West face 60° - 75° degrees difficult

Dates & Prices:

More information about dates and prices upon request.

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Eric Albino Lliuya
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